Hometown historians share coastal culture and local lore
ST. MARYS, GEORGIA–JANUARY 2024–There are many reasons visitors find their way to the storied streets of St. Marys. Some come for a relaxed small-town getaway, some for access to diverse outdoor adventures. But no matter the reason for coming, all are drawn to the fascinating stories of this historic coastal community. And less than an hour’s drive north of Jacksonville, Florida, off I-95, St. Marys’ location makes coming to hear the history, lore and legends well worth the trip.
The many stories are brought to life by locals who not only love their adopted home, but also love sharing what makes this piece of the South Georgia coast so special, both the intriguing accounts of its history and the welcoming atmosphere of today.
Author and historian Kay Westberry is a native of the Georgia coast, where she’s lived her entire life. “I was born in Savannah and now live in the historic district of St. Marys, so I have lived as far north and south as one can go on the Georgia coast for my whole life. Salt water is in my blood,” she recounts. “The quaintness of the historic homes here and the stories of the people who built the town over the past 236 years made me want to spend my whole life here.”
These days Kay invites visitors to join in her tours of St. Marys’ Oak Grove Cemetery (Corner of Bartlett Street & W. St. Marys Street). The tours are free but donations are accepted to fund headstone repairs. The oldest marked grave in the cemetery is dated 1801.
“I chair the Oak Grove Cemetery Authority,” Kay says. “It was laid out at the same time as the town. It is full of beautifully carved marble monuments, massive oak trees as old as the town, and camellia varieties which were transported here throughout its history.” She finds that people, who may often be more familiar with the history of other coastal towns, are fascinated by St. Marys.
“The history, the wildlife, the waterways, with Cumberland Island and the ocean so nearby are magical and cast a spell on everyone who visits here. I’m especially and pleasantly surprised at how many young people want to know the history here. Once they hear me telling the stories, they follow me around asking questions. It’s nice to watch their interest grow.”
In contrast, Bob Dickman moved to Georgia after growing up in the Northeast and completing a long military and subsequent civilian career in Washington, D.C. Since 2017 he has called St. Marys home and now spends time sharing what he’s learned and all that he loves about his chosen hometown.
“I might have wanted to live here for the shrimp and grits regardless of anything else,” says the retired Air Force Major General. He recalls that his first experience in downtown St. Marys was eating seafood when, after finding a house they wanted to purchase in a nearby golf community, he and his wife ventured into a restaurant for a meal. “We found a gated golf community within an easy drive of our son, and out of the D.C. area and the winter weather.” But he adds, “It wasn’t until we ‘found’ the town of St. Marys that we fell in love with our little piece of paradise.” Bob has now been a volunteer for the St. Marys Convention & Visitors Bureau (400 Osborne Street, St. Marys, Georgia 31558; 912-882-4000) for more than five years and guides golf cart tours through his paradise.
“I start all my tours saying, ‘There are a thousand stories about St. Marys, and some of them are true.’ I start at the marsh on the east waterfront and explain why St. Marys was a seaport long before it was a town. That,” he continues, “leads to talking about Okefenokee, and where we stand, we can see Cumberland Island.
“As I talk about the history of the town, from its founding, through the Civil War, the paper mill that came in 1940, the submarine base, the waterfront, the historic cemetery, several historic buildings that have interesting stories, etc., I try to convey that it is a small town in a small county that is becoming something very special. It hasn’t lost the small-town friendliness, but it has major national parks within an easy drive or ferry ride, 30 minutes to an easy-to-use international airport, a few minutes from I-95, plentiful seafood, lots of mom-and-pop stores and food. I could go on and on . . .”
Bob’s enthusiasm is matched by that of Molly Silver, owner of Molly’s Old South Walking Tour (7 West St. Marys Street, St. Marys, Georgia 31558; 904-735-8243). In fact, she hosts a whole slate of tours that focus on the destination’s unique aspects, historic events and fun facts. These include daily walking tours in St. Marys and on Cumberland Island and evening tours exploring topics ranging from Murder, Mayhem & Martinis to Fugitives, Fighters and Fudge.
“I love showing visitors that St. Marys has so many incredible stories to tell, from two centuries ago to the present day! Where else,” Molly notes, “can you talk about a horse in the belltower of a church, a 1970s assassination plot and a Revolutionary war traitor all in one tour? I especially love bringing guests inside St. Marys’ beautiful historic buildings, where the stories really come to life.”
When moving to St. Marys more than 20 years ago, Molly admits she wasn’t sure she’d enjoy the slower pace of a small town. “To be honest, I was skeptical about moving to St. Marys. I was used to the big city, and St. Marys felt like a sleepy small town. Now,” she says, “the longer I am in St. Marys, the more I love it! The people are friendly, the town feels safe and life here is easy. Plus, I absolutely love St. Marys’ beautiful historic architecture and fascinating history.” That’s high praise from someone who spent five years in Italy, guiding tours in Rome and Florence.
Whether it is accounts from the pages of Kay’s books on the history of St. Marys or Bob’s stories of personal connections to its businesses, historic buildings and military history or an immersive experience on one of Molly’s specialized tours, visitors are lucky to have such personal ways to connect with this coastal town. As they share a warm welcome and a few stories they are not only keeping St. Marys’ history alive, they are continuing its legacy as a welcoming community and the perfect spot for a coastal respite.
If you go
History buffs love to visit these downtown attractions when in St. Marys:
At St. Marys Submarine Museum (102 W. St. Marys Street, St. Marys, Georgia 31558;
912-882-2782) the extensive activities of the “Silent Service” are chronicled. This is the largest museum of its kind in the South and is filled with a wide variety of exhibits, pictures, models, artifacts and rare historical documents. Local accounts of activity are chronicled, and volumes of WW II submarine patrol reports are housed here, as are files on nearly every United States submarine ever in service.
Cumberland Island Visitor Center (113 St. Marys Street, St. Marys, Georgia 31558; 912-882-4336) and museum (129 Osborne Street, St. Marys, Georgia 31558; 912-882-4336) welcome guests and tell the stories of the island’s thousands of years of history. Artifacts and accounts from the eras of the American Indian, British explorers and enslaved people are on display.
Where to stay The independent lodging options here also offer a glimpse into St. Marys history and each has a personality of its own and a story to tell. There are bed and breakfast homes like the Spencer House Inn (200 Osborne Street, St. Marys, Georgia 31558; 912-882-1872), built in 1872. The 14-room inn, in the heart of downtown, proudly carries on its original mission of being one of the finest hotels in Southeast Georgia, as it was initially touted. The historic Riverview Hotel (105 Osborne Street, St. Marys, Georgia 31558; 912-882-3242) verandas overlook the downtown waterfront park, ferry dock and St. Marys River. There are also a mix of vacation rental homes, including the house where Aaron Burr stayed after his ill-fated duel with Alexander Hamilton, and also campgrounds for those who’d prefer to get back to nature.